Bob Martin, Fashion Designer

Welcome back. Let me introduce you to Fashion Designer, educator, Bob Martin.


I asked Bob a number of questions, but first, a bit of background:

Bob Martin breaks the mold of the “typical” Fashion Designer ' His unique “country boy” roots and experience in woodworking, leatherworking, and ice sculpting have him an abundance of skills. These ideas and skills are evident in his work which have been on display in London England and can be seen in blockbuster movies such as “Sweeney Todd”.

His passion for design and innovation has led him in a successful career in fashion, and in particularly the area of fashion education. His most recent design work is a capsule collection of shoe accessories called the “Heel Jacket.”

Bob is the creator of How to Fashion Design with Bob Martin can be purchased at major retailers like Best Buy.com, Target.com and Barnes and Noble.com. He is also a featured designer for Bernina of America Inc. I've got this DVD set and it's excellent. I was drawing a fashion figure with the very first lesson. Bob's instructions are very clear and I had success on my first try.

“My vision is to see an upcoming generation of Fashion Talent develop as a result of this program and flourish beyond what has ever been, in ALL Facets of Design."

Here are my questions and Bob's answers:

1. Would you ever consider being a contestant on Project Runway?

I had considered applying for Project Runway earlier on, but now I don’t really feel it is the path leading to where I am going now in my career . This is mainly because my aspirations have changed, now being involved with the How to Fashion Design DVD program, and with the other areas where I want to work. I don’t see Project Runway being a benefit to those goals. I am a competitive person so that aspect of the show excites me, however the project challenges Project Runway presents with a time constraint and the way the challenge are presented to be completed, don’t allow for the design aspect that I like. So the show does not inspire me in the way I like to design, not that this method is wrong but it just isn’t me as a Designer.

2. Do you have any hints for drawing knitwear, that is, pullovers, cardigans, etc.?

Drawing knit wear texture is tough. One of the best tips I can give you for replicating knit wear in your drawings, is one I use. Find an item with a textured surface, like a piece of sand paper . Place the sand paper under your drawing and rub your pencil overtop to create the look. Try using different types of items under your paper depending on the knit you want to simulate. All types of items can have a surface texture to do a rubbing with. Also don’t fill the whole drawing with the texture, just simply add it to the shoulder and select places to communicate it.

What a wonderful idea. I'm going to give it a try.

3. If you had to pick just one, what aspect of the fashion industry would you choose? Designing, teaching, something else?

Teaching design is what I would choose. When you teach design and people are learning then you do not have the pressures of designing to turn a profit, or please a buyer, all that is gone and it is just the discovery process of design happening. I love being inspired and watching others experience it. Watching students learn and discover, as well as, see their interpretation of the project. Everyone, be it a teacher, or student, thinks and sees things differently.


4. Where do you see fashion headed in the next 5 years?

I see fashion in the next 5 years turning to more “green” thinking. It is becoming more important to people, really in the last 10 years, and I think you will continue to see that grow in interest. Typically people who don’t normally consider it will.

The bad economy will also force people to rethink their wardrobe and to be more versatile. I think you will see styling play a big role in what we wear. Simply adding accessories to your wardrobe for example, my brand “Heel Jacket”, where women can dress up an ordinary outfit with a cleverly designed accessory.
Ecommerce also will, and has, had an effected on the way we can buy designer clothing. Some people never had access to buy certain top brand names. Internet has opened the door for people to buy brands and styles they would not have before.

5. Do you have a favorite area of fashion? Theater, vintage, haute couture, ready to wear, for example?

Haute couture is what I really enjoy seeing on the Runway.

6. Do you have a favorite designer, and why?

Aitor Throup is one of my favorites. Garrith Pugh is as well because his designs are off the wall and bizarre, yet exquisitely executed. His garments are far out, but believable at the same time. Most people think, I would never wear that, but this is the type of design that inspires other ready wear designers. I really like those designers that are inspiring other designers.
Some designers look at past designs for inspiration, and there are even designers that look back to their own designs and find new inspirations. You hear some designers say, don’t copy my designs, but in a way it is a compliment to have someone look at your work and be inspired by it. I love to see a design come down the runway that makes you think….. I have seen that before, but I can’t quite put my finger on where it was I saw it. These types of fashions are truly innovative and you will see them filter down through seasons, to other designer’s collections
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7. Would you ever consider making a DVD for knitting designers? I’d love to see a DVD that specially taught how to draw heavy sweaters, jackets, pullovers, accessories, etc

Yes, I would love to do a lesson on knitting. I myself would like to become more familiar with it as well. Just be watching out for it, sign up to my newsletter at http://www.howtofashiondesign.com/ and I’ll let you know if it goes into production.

8. Can sewing designs be translated into knitting designs successfully?

Yes, anything is possible. I guess I may need to understand what you mean by successful. Obviously the textiles are totally different. But often mistakes can be successful as well, it really depends on what appeals to you as a designer and what you are trying to achieve. For example: I can take a thick piece of leather and a soft fabric and find a way to make them work together in a garment. Whether or not it is appealing to me or “successful” is really a matter of opinion based on what my desired outcome was.

9. Any words of advice for a knitting designer?

My words of advice for a knitting designer are, try to knit anything. One thing that knit designers have over fabric designers are the ability to actually create your textile. Knitwear is very organic because you grow everything. Every time you add a row you can do whatever you want in the design, you can drop stitches, you don’t have to use any seams, you can add yarn, you can take yarn away, and there is no limit. You can literally grow it into anything so let that be your inspiration, to just try anything. Garrith Pugh knitted garbage bags!

10. I have your DVDs, which I like very much. I followed along step-by-step on drawing the human figure and was pleased with my results right away. The idea that a fashion sketch is 9 heads tall is interesting, but is there a formula for drawing people of regular height, 8 heads tall?

There is a formula for drawing the 8 head figure as well. As a fashion designer you will not want to illustrate your designs on a model of 8 heads, for reasons we discuss in the Fashion Drawing DVD. With that said the figure points are as follows for an 8 head figure.

Line 1 – Head Line 2 - Chest line at nipples Line 3 - Waistline, at bellybutton Line 4 - Groin Area Line 5 - Just above the knee Line 6 - Just below knee Line 7 - Mid calf Line 8 - Bottom of feet.

Thanks, Bob, for being a guest blogger. This has been very informative and I'm a fan. I've signed up for your newsletter and bookmarked your website and will be watching for more DVDs, hints and tips in the future. I don't sew, but I appreciate those who do and I find that your DVDs appeal to a broad audience. You have certainly helped and inspired me.

Thanks again and come back again at any time!
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